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Honda C70 Passport Resources

Honda has been building versions of the Cub, a small step-through framed
motorcycle with a horizontal 4-stroke single-cylinder engine since 1958.

In 2008, Honda announced production of the Cub had reached an amazing
60 MILLION units!

While production goes on in 15 countries, and Cubs remain a popular choice
with buyers in 160,  Honda sadly chose to discontinue export of the Cub
to the USA in 1983.  Even more sad is the fact that as supplies of repair
parts ran out at local dealers, no new parts were sent to replace them, and
many are no longer available even by special order.

With so many Cubs all over the world, and a well-deserved reputation
for quality, durability and economy built upon this model, you'd think
Honda would be interested in keeping them running by selling parts and
providing service for them worldwide.

No such luck.

Only a small number of daily riders, RV-park runabouts and weekenders
have been in constant use - nursed along for the last 20 or 30 years using
eBay, a few NOS parts left on the shelves, and whatever can be gleaned
from the few reliable sources that survive.  

Thousands of Cubs in the USA reached their first regular maintenance
interval in the mid-1980's, and when the owner found the service would
cost half as much as the bike did new - they parked their bikes without
concern for typical storage issues and left them to rot.

As those old dusty bikes are removed from storage and hit the market, 
you'll occasionally find them being sold on eBay or Craigslist.  In conditions
from basket case to pristine, with clean examples bringing in prices ranging
from 'chump change' to the 'big money' we've come to expect from any
modern scooter on the showroom floor.  Even when broken down and
parted out piece by piece, they can bring in enough cash that the owner
clears enough in profit to buy a modern scooter.

So, if you are lucky enough to posess a C100, C102, CA100, CA102,
C50/C65 Cub, C70, C70M or Passport, C90, CM91 Super Cub, (or any
of the international versions) - hopefully this page will be of help getting
you on the road, enjoying one of Honda's greatest offerings.


First thing you should do is subscribe yourself to the Honda-C70 and
groups on Yahoo.

The Honda-C70 Group has grown over the last few years, and with 4400
members in June 2008 sits second in size among English-language Honda
groups on Yahoo. Lots of message traffic, very helpful members, and no
SPAM. What more could you ask for?

Search the message archives, check out the "Files" sections (which contain
an online version of the Factory Honda Service Manual for the 1980-83
USA-type Honda C70 Passport models), and then ask your questions.

This page you're on may end up proving useful as an unofficial FAQ
(Frequently Asked Questions) repository for the groups. I've thrown it
together mainly from postings to the groups, so maybe you'll pick up a
few helpful tips and suggestions from the stuff collected here and save
some time and effort searching.

If you have questions or a topic not covered here, or just think something
should be added - write me a note. If the topic is something that would make
sense to be shared with the list - ask the questions there too.

-Mike G.

Standard C70 suggestions:

Tire changing and flat repairs in general

Wheel removal on a Cub/C70/Passport is a chore/pain/workout.   

You already know this if you've changed out old original tires or had a
flat out on the road.

Those of you who have already gone through this 'baptism of fire' know
that it's a lesson best learned when you're not in a hurry or shipwrecked
on the side of the road.

Find the time to learn how to remove both wheels at home - if only to
see how it's done.  You can use this practice time to regrease the bearings
and check the brakes while you're in there, adjusting the chain and aligning
the rear wheel can be done as a bonus.

Once you've completed the task successfully, it should be fairly easy to do
from then on, no matter what the conditions.

Tools you'll need

10, 12, 15, 17 and 24mm wrenches,
2 tire irons,
talcum powder,
a Schraeder valve pump.

The simple way

I did a tire change recently on the 1983 model pictured on this page using
a new center stand acquired from Indonesia through online sources
(American bikes haven't had them since 1972).  Using a stand it's much
easier to get the wheels off.  With the rear wheel completely off the ground
you can do this job without removing the chain guard or the left side drive
components (chain cover, sprocket, chain, chain adjuster, seconf axle nut).
Check it out.

Simplest wheel removal yet.

1. cotter pin out
2. main axle nut off
3. wheel end brake backing plate stay and brake rod nut off
4. pull the axle all the way out by the right side adjuster
5. remove the right side axle spacer
6. pull the brake backing plate out of the hub
7. slide the hub to the right and off the four fingers of the drive flange
8. tilt wheel in fender to the left at the top and front so it can
    slide out between the fender and exhaust

That's it. The drive side components all stay in place - chain included.

Assembly is the reverse.

1. wheel goes in from the right, tilted to avoid the pipe
2. slide it to the left and onto the four fingers of the drive flange
3. install brake backing plate in hub
4. hold axle spacer in place and put the axle in from the left
5. install brake rod on hub
6. attach backing plate positioning arm
7. while pushing the wheel to the right and holding the right end of the
    axle still, tighten the left side axle nut and install the cotter pin
8. check adjuster tension (the other side too)

You're done.

Chain adjustment shouldn't have changed, but the alignment might.
Check it if you think you need to.

Love the center stand.

* * *

Suggestions about flat repairs and changing tires

Here are a few things to consider before changing a tire or tube on
a C70, Cub, Super Cub or Passport (the list gets longer every time I
think about it):

Wheel removal:

1. The tool kit that comes with the bike will do the job OK on the road,
but at home I would use professional-quality hand tools. They are made
to higher standards, offer a bit more leverage and have tighter tolerances
so they do less damage to the nuts and bolts. Using a home set of tool
will prolong the life of the set on the bike too - so when you really NEED
them, they will be in good shape and still be able to do the job.

2. You MUST remove the front or rear wheel to patch or replace a tube
or put on a new tire. This can be a semi-complicated and messy procedure
on the rear due to the long fender and lack of a centerstand on later
models.  Once you've got some practice, either doing it yourself or seeing
it done, you should be able to repeat the task fairly quickly and easily.

3. If you have a centerstand - great. If not, placing a plastic milk crate,
5-gallon paint bucket or a stiff box under the motor - anything that lifts
both wheels off the ground - should make the job much easier. Worst
case scenario - in addition to the side stand you can lean the bike to the
left and place a long brick, sturdy piece of wood or anything placed
under the right footpeg to hold the rear wheel in the air.  For the front
wheel, it's either centerstand and some weight on the rear of the bike
or a full-bike lift.

4. If you are a rear wheel first-timer; I would recommend taking the
chain cover completely off, removing the chain, disconnecting both
rear brake arms (actuating rod and locating arm), taking both nuts off
the axle on the chain side, and backing the axle adjusting nuts off a few
turns on both sides too.  The chain could probably use some cleaning
(old toothbrush and degreaser/kerosene/gasoline) and a re-lube, and
do the inside of the chain cover at the same time. Re-grease the sprocket
carrier bearing while you're in there as well. 

5. For every subsequent wheel removal, keep in mind that the rear
wheel DOES come out without removing the chain cover and breaking
the chain (as explained above), so resist the urge. It's messy and adds
unnecessary work.  With experience, you will be able to finesse the
wheel out of the frame without removing anything on the drive side.
Until that time comes, you can remove the chain cover and either
loosen the axle and slip the chain off the teeth of the rear sprocket
and rest it on the hub to the outside, or leave the chain on and remove
the large axle nut to take the entire drive unit off with the rear wheel.
The latter can only be done when the wheel has enough room to move
all the way to the right in the space between the sides of the swingarm.
This requires the removal of the axle, the right side tubular spacer
and the whole brake mechanism. With those parts removed, the
wheel can be pushed to the right far enough to release the drive
unit in one piece, with the chain still on the teeth. Let it drop to the
ground on a rag or paper towel, or tie the sprocket to the swingarm
with a twist tie or wire. 

Tire removal:

Note: Pinching the innertube between the tire casing or a metal tool and
the rim will slice a hole in the tube and cause a leak (common term
for this is a "pinch flat").  VERY annoying when it spoils an otherwise
successful wheel removal.  To prevent these flats from happening, it's
important to use 'finesse' not 'force' when prying the tire bead over
the rim.  Use extra care to free up space between the tire and rim, use
blunt levers with round edges, and be as careful as possible not to
catch the tube between the tire tools and the rim. 

1. To take the tire off the rim, you must first deflate the tire and 'break
the bead' - the process of unsticking the rubber of the tire inner lip from
the shoulder of the rim, all the way around. I like to deflate the tire by
removing the valve in the stem.  There are small tools you can get at
any auto parts shop or valve caps with the tool in one end.  Otherwise,
get as much air out as you can by pushing the valve pin in. 

2. With the tube completely deflated, you break the bead and loosen
the tire on the rim by squeezing both sidewalls together with your fingers
and pushing the beads into the depression in the middle of the rim (where
the spoke heads are) before prying the tire over the rim with tire irons
180 degrees away.

3. If your tire irons require a lot of effort to get between the rim and tire,
there's something wrong. Squeeze the tire bead together again and pry on
the opposite side at the same time. Squeeze and pry around the rim until
you can get the last few degrees off with your hands.  Makes things easier
coming off AND going on. The last few inches by hand is your goal. 
Using tools to force the last few inches in place is a sure way to pinch the
tube.  Can't stress that enough.

4. Before installing a new tire or tube, use plenty of dry, slippery powder
(baby powder or talcum powder) on the tire to keep it from sticking to the
inside of the tire casing or rim strip. If the tube can move freely inside
the tire, it's less likely to get pinched between a tool and the rim.  Puff a
bunch into your hand and slide the semi-inflated tire through it.  Makes it
smell nice too <grin>.

5. Don't put the tire on the rim "valve stem last" (as some advice providers
suggest). A Passport rim is substantially narrower than most scooters.
For the tire beads to seat at the valve stem, the thickened part of the
tube at the valve stem has to be lifted away from the rim and bead seats.
So, we put the tube stem in first at installation to make it possible to get
the beads seated there and reduce the chance of pinching when the tire
goes on.

6. Put the valve stem through the rim and its retaining nut on only
one or two threads deep - just enough to hold the stem in place.
Don't cinch the nut on the stem all the way down - the valve stem
should be pushed all the way in - so that only the nut protrudes from
the rim. This allows the beads of the tire to seat against the stem
and leaves enough room to get the tire over the rim all rest of the
way around.

7. Work the tire on from the valve stem point three quarters of the
way around the rim before even thinking of using tools. If you squeeze
the beads together opposite the place you are trying to get on, the
bead will slip into the center recess in the rim and should be enough
to get the other side over the rim.

8. If you absolutely MUST use a tire iron to get the last three of four
inches of tire over the rim - make sure it has no sharp edges, that the
tube is completely inside the tire and that you don't feel the tube under
the iron as you pop the bead over the rim.  If you can do it with your
hands - you'll be much better off.  Try again to squeeze the beads on
the opposite side and finish by hand.  You'll thank me later.

9. Pull up and straighten the valve stem before inflating.  This might
require some squeezing beads, tugging and rotating the wheel inside
the tire.  Don't just force the stem.  Moving the tire casing will move
the tube and align the stem.

10. Finally, when the tire has been re-inflated and the wheel reinstalled,
make sure the chain cover goes back on properly. The back side of the
chain cover by the wheel has a tongue and groove mating edge that
sometimes doesn't go together right.  Make sure it's mated properly
before putting all four bolts back in, or the chain will rub on it in a
very noisy fashion.

See? It's EASY to change a tire on a Passport <grin>.


Tire changes and flat repairs again - the easy way

Deflate the tire if it isn't already. Remove the inner workings of the
valve from from the stem if you have to.

With the wheel out of the frame, squeeze the edges of the tire
together where they meet the rim, and 'unstick' the bead from the
metal all the way around the rim on both sides.

Now that the tire is loose from the rim, squeeze the side opposite
the valve stem together and into the depression in the rim center
(where the spoke heads are) while inserting a tire tool at the
opposite point. The combination of the tire squeezed in off the
bead on one side and the tire loose on the other should be enough
to make it fairly easily to slip about a six inch section of the bead
over the rim with a tire iron.

With one iron inserted and the bead outside the rim, put another tire
iron in about 6-8 inches away from the first. This one will be a bit
harder to get over the rim, and if it's REALLY hard, squeeze the tire
together bead-to-bead again opposite the new iron to give it some

The third iron at another 6-8 inches should do the trick. With the
rim half off, a tire iron between the tire bead and ooutside of the
rim should be able to be slid sideways to take the remaining bead
outside the rim.

With the tire half off, put the opposite side bead in the center of
the rim and start at the opposite side again, and repeat.

Some people like to use lubricant to install new tires - but
it isn't necessary. If the tire is reticent, a simple slightly
slippery solution of bar soap and water on the bead will make putting
the tire back on easier.

Putting the tire back on is done in the reverse of the above.

Slip the tire bead over the rim on one side, then work it into the
center of the rim. Push of pry the remaining bead of the tire over
the rim a few inches at a time.

With one complete side of the tire installed, it's time to install the tube.

First make sure the rim strip is in place, that it completely covers
the spoke heads and doesn't extend out of the rim center onto the
flats of the bead seat (the tire wont seat on the bead if the rim
strip is in the way).

Some people like to sprinkle a handful of talc inside the tire and on
the tube to keep the tube from sticking next time you need to fix a
flat. I'm one of them.

Put enough air into the tube to give it shape, and slip it into the
tire. Push the valve stem through the hole in the rim just one or two
threads and hold it in place with one of the nuts provided or the
plastic valve cap - just enough to keep it from coming back through.

Push the tube into tire enough that it doesn't get caught in the bead
and slip the first part of the tire bead under the rim at the valve
stem. Holding the tire bead under the rim at the stem with one hand,
work the tire under the bead away from that point on one side as far
as you can without tools. You should be able to get 3/4's of the way
around. When you get to that point, squeeze the beads together on the
opposite side (90 degrees away from the valve stem) and into the rim
center to loosen up the other side.

If the tire is tight enough to need tools at this point, carefully
push any visible tube inside the tire and get a tire tool (with no
sharp edges - that means no flat-blade screwdrivers) and gently work
it under the tire bead, making sure you don't feel the tube fighting
back, until you get past the rim lip. Gently pry the tire bead over
the rim (watch out for pinching the tube). This might take two pry's
at 6-8 inches apart. The remaining 6 inches should be worked over the
rim edge by hand to prevent pinching the tube where the tire bead and
rim are the tightest.

With the tire and tube on the rim, squeeze the tire beads together
and look for the tube sticking out on either side at the bead. If
there's no tube visible, you can now seat the tire bead on the rim.

Put a little air into the tube at a time and make sure the whole bead
seats evenly around the tire and rim junction. If you have to take
the tire up to pressure and deflate it a few times to get the bead to
seat - that's OK.

If the valve stem has become crooked, let the air out, squeeze the
beads to unseat them and manhandle the tire/tube combo a few degrees
to get the valve straight.

Inflate to the proper pressure and you're ready to rock.

Paul passing at Lago

Replacing float bowl screws with allen head screws

The float bowl on a C70 is normally held in place by two small phillips
head screws. These screws are notoriously hard to get at when the carb
is on the bike, and if you don't have the 'right' screwdriver or the heads
ever get rounded or stripped, it's no fun at all to deal with.

I recommend replacing the stock screws with two 4x14mm metric allen
head cap screws from your local warehouse home supply store. Allen
head screws are much easier to work with in close quarters, and with a
small lock-washer and single drop of Loctite medium strength threadlocker
on each, they should hold better and leak less under the vibration usually
associated with small engines like ours.

Two or four screws usually come in a little $.65 bag. Two go in the bowl,
and a third will replace the choke cable clamp screw, and a fourth
can be saved as a spare. Just remember to put the proper size allen
wrench in your tool kit on the bike. If those screws get loose and you
have a major gas leak, or you stall out and need to free up a sticky float,
you'll be glad you have that little allen wrench in your toolkit.

I also suggest the same treatment for the screws that hold the petcock on
the float bowl of late model C70's, but 3x12mm allen head cap screws are
a fairly special size, and not always available at Home Depot's or Lowe's.
You can find them at your better hardware stores, a fastener dealer or
foreign car parts stores.

Carburetor hoses and cables

The carburetor on a C70 should have a total of four hoses and two cables
attached to it.

The two cables are obvious - the throttle at the very top of the body
and the choke on the side.

Two of the four hoses are the main and reserve fuel supply lines.

They they are twice the size of the others and attach to the fuel
petcock with either spring clips or hose clamps. The original rubber
hoses come from the factory 'polarized' - the main line has a smooth
surface on the outside and draws fuel from a tube raised off the
bottom of the tank (so it runs dry a little before the tank is
completely empty) and the reserve hose that comes off the very bottom
of the tank has longitudinal 'ribs' on the outside to distinguish it
from the main line.

The other two are half the size of the fuel supply hoses, are
attached at only one end (the carb) and handle only manual fuel
drainage and venting.

The one that comes from the top half of the carb is the float bowl
vent and overflow hose. It's attached to a small aluminum pipe that is
always above the split line in the carb between the body and float
bowl and usually right above the idle adjustment screw. It's source
is the hole in carb body that's on the roof of the float bowl cavity,
and it provides venting for proper fuel flow into the bowl and
overflow protection should your float valve stick open while your
petcock is open. The open end of this hose is usually routed toward
the back of the bike, over the top of the starter motor and into the
main frame cavity. From there it allows air to get into the float
bowl from a place where water isn't likely to get in, and also drains
raw fuel overflow safely on the ground, away from sources of

<>The other that comes off the very bottom of the carb is the manual
float bowl drain valve and bowl overflow tube vent hose. It's attached
to a brass fitting on the bottom of the float bowl and has a brass drain
screw immediately next to it. The screw is the manual float bowl drain
valve, which with the petcock turned OFF allows you to empty the
float bowl before maintenance or storage. With the petcock ON it
offers you a simple way to 'prime' the fuel system and test fuel flow.
The vents are open, lines are clear and the float valve is working
properly if fuel runs fast and free for long enough to account for
more than just the capacity of the bowl (maybe 10-20 seconds).
The second purpose of the hose is to carry away fuel in the bowl
that rises above the overflow tube that extends up from the bottom.
If your float gets stuck DOWN, develops a crack and fills with fuel,
or is set too high - the float needle valve will not close when the bowl
is full and the excess fuel in the bowl drains freely through this hose.
The bowl drain hose is usually routed down from the carb, beside the
cylinder fins to a clip in front of crankcase, where raw fuel can drain
safely away from sources of spark, and the fuel can be drained into a
catch tank of some kind if you are doing planned maintenance.

There are photos of the proper routing of these hoses on page 5-2 of
the online manual here:


You MUST have a good battery installed to keep your headlight and
other bulbs on a C70 from blowing.  Charging the battery absorbs voltage
spikes the generator throws off at high revs. There is no other voltage
regulation on the USA-type C70.

If your battery is old, dried up, sulfated badly or for whatever reason
not holding a charge - fix it or get a new one. Bench charge all batteries
new or restored before you install them. 

The generator on the engine is designed to put out enough current
to run the bike and keep the battery charged, but just barely.

If you only ride short distances or at low rpm for any length of time,
normal generator output may not be enough to bring the battery back
to full charge. Do this a lot, and the battery charge will decrease with
each ride. You will kill your battery much faster then normal.

Need a new battery? Before you go out and buy the most expensive
one available, from experience I have come to the realization that under
the stress we place on our batteries, there is no major difference in
performance or capacity among the brands of liquid-filled units
available for our C70's.  IMHO, it doesn't make any difference what
brand you buy in search of greater performance. 

Unless you make more space on the bike to install a physically larger
battery - you aren't going to net any gains in battery performance.

The battery sizes that fits in the frame of USA-types:
6N11-2D (6v), L=5.9, W=2.8, H=3.9
YB5L-B (12v), L=4.72, W=2.36, H=5.12
are almost always rated within an amp or so of each other
(6v=11ah, 12v=5ah).

The MAINTENANCE required is the only important difference
among batteries.

A low(er) maintenance 'sealed'-type battery has definite advantages
over a liquid-filled battery - just not in capacity.

There are plenty of liquid-filled, maintenance intensive (electrolyte
level and charging) and cheap ($12-35) 'normal' batteries out there.
One is as good as the next for the most part. Spend any more than
$30, and you might as well get a gel-filled, AGM, sealed,
maintenance-free (well, it still needs charging) battery ($35-65).

Try this site for some entertaining brand choices:

...and these two pages on another site for size comparisons: - 6 volt - 12 volt

In closing, if you are willing to do the maintenance and want to save
money, get the cheapest liquid-filled battery your conscience will

If you are willing to pay up front for a sealed battery, and you are
a typical C70 owner (letting your bike sit up for long periods and
not doing the recommended maintenance), they are certainly an
investment worth looking into. Just don't expect to get any extra
amp hours in the process. Only a bigger size battery, or a SECOND
unit will do that.

No matter what kind/brand you have now, my standard reply to
anyone whose battery has given up the ghost is to test the old battery,
generator output and rectifier - and if needed, replace the battery.
An external 'smart' trickle charger is a MUST for users who let
batteries drain and only ride infrequently.

Dead electric starters

Everything in the electric start system focuses on one thing - the
"neutral switch".

It isn't really a "switch". It's actually a plastic and metal plug under
the countershaft sprocket cover with a metal circuit running through
it from a wire on the outside to a contact on the inside end.

When the shift drum is in the neutral position there is a tab on the end
that makes physical contact inside the engine with the neutral switch
end which provides a ground to the wiring harness (LIGHT GREEN
wire with RED STRIPE) through the engine to the frame.

The neutral switch is the ground at the end of the circuit that triggers
the starter relay. This creates a safety interlock to prevent runaways
when starting in gear. Engine will only start in neutral.

Here is a description of the starter circuit.

Battery must be fully charged and functioning properly.

Ignition switch on sends battery power to the low tension side of
the relay. Pushing starter button with the bike in neutral completes
the circuit from the relay to ground and the relay should close.

The closed relay connects the battery positive high tension cable
across the relay posts to power the starter motor, which is grounded
to the engine/frame - no negative wire.

If the neutral switch ground isn't effective (worn contact, broken
internal circuit), the wiring is frayed, shorted or disconnected, the
starter button is corroded, the relay is sticky or the ignition switch
flaky - the relay usually won't close reliably and you'll have the starter
problems that are typical of this model bike.

Neutral switches fail. They are made from plastic that can become
brittle over time, the metal parts inside will break or otherwise short
out, or someone may break the switch while working on the bike
and not care if the starter doesn't work, leaving it for later.

Now it's your problem. Lucky you.

If the neutral switch is dead - replacements are available domestically
and abroad.

If your battery is charged and otherwise fully functional and your
neutral switch tests OK and the electric starter still doesn't work, the
most common faults that remain are 'sticky' starter relays, and inadequate
wiring quality between the switch, starter button on the handlebars
and the relay.

Simple answers before you get too involved with the search.

If the battery isn't charged - you're wasting your time with any searching.

Put a charger on the battery. If it won't hold a full charge - replace it.

If yor battery is good and you see a bright neutral light in the speedo -
you more likely than not have a good neutral switch.

If you push the starter button and the relay just 'clicks' and nothing spins -
either the wiring isn't carrying the ground to the handlebar switch, or the
switch isn't transmitting the ground to the relay, or the relay isn't loose
enough to close with the current and ground available to it.

The handlebar switch contacts might be corroded, or the relay sticky
from lack of use.  Bench firing the relay a bunch of times on the battery
without the starter as a load should free it up enough for the relay to be
eliminated as a fault.

If the relay is working and the starter motor still doesn't spin, make sure
the transmission is in neutral and carefully short the two big posts on the
relay together (insulate yourself from the big electrical arc it will create -
and don't use anything like a favorite screwdriver, as it will be eaten like
using a welder on it). Shorting the two connects the positive connection
to the motor (ground is to the engine and frame - no wire). The motor
should spin.

Starter motors, their drive chains and clutch are virtually indestructible.
They are the least likely places to find a fault. If they truly are damaged
or faulty, it will be a little work to fix or replace them, but new motors are
available and the drive can be fixed with the removal of the generator.

Dead turn signals

If the battery is fully charged and your turn signals wont blink, this is a
failsafe or warning feature built into the signal flasher.  All modern cars
and bikes have it.  Flashers don't fail very often, so the most likely problems
are a broken bulb filament or bad contacts in the socket.  Remove and check
for a bad filament, clean the bulb base and socket, make sure the socket holds
the bulb tight enough and that the contacts on the back of the bulb are touching
the ones in the socket. 

Gear up

Get a 15 tooth countershaft sprocket to replace the 14 tooth that comes
with the bike. You'll appreciate the slightly lower rpm the engine
turns at cruising speed (decreasing vibration in the process).  Don't expect
any speed increase with re-gearing.  Only adding power through performance
mods will do that.  In a strong tailwind or downhill you might net a mph or
two, but the main benefit is in extending the range of lower gears and lowering
rpm at cruising speed.  Sunstar #10215 is usually available in most Honda
accessory departments or you can buy the Honda branded part by special
order through your Honda dealer parts department ($13-20).

You can see the difference small changes in gearing make in MPH and
RPM by running the numbers through my Javascript page located here.

Here are all the Hondas that use the same size countershaft.
Any sprocket meant for one of these bikes will fit on a C70.

All the Hondas that use the same countershaft as the Honda C70:
C100, C102, C100: 1964-69
CT70, TRAIL 70: 1969-Present
M5, B5: 1982
CL70, SL70 K3: 1972-80
MR50K1, MR50K2: 1974-75
QA50 MINI: 1969-78
Z50R, Z50A, Z70RD: 1974-Present
TRX70: 1986-87
XR75: 1973-78
ZR50, ZB50: 1988
CR80R: 1980-85
NS50: 1990
XL80: 1980-85
XR80: 1979-84
C70: 1980-83
CR60R: 1983-84
XR70: 1997-99
S65 TRAIL: 1968-69
XR80R: 1985-88, 90-Present
ATC70: 1970-85


Amazing as this sounds, the best place to get Cub/C70/Passport tires
is your local Honda dealer.

Almost all motorcycle dealers have a "Parts Unlimited" catalog in their
parts or accessory departments. In the catalogs scooter tire section
they have quite a few offerings in our sizes, from OEM-style replacements
(universal tread on the back and straight-rib up front), generic universal
tread types, and modern tread designs and compounds that would be right
at home on any road-racing bike. Honda dealer policy is to charge you in
advance for the purchase, but not to charge for shipping - so most tires
available in the catalog that come close to online prices will wind up totaling
the same after taxes and disposal fees. Anything that you can do that help keep
local dealers stocking and ordering parts for our bikes is a good thing.

Support your Local Bike Shop ("LBS").

Most Passports ride on 2.50-17 rear and 2.25-17 front. While some people
seem torn between maintaining OEM and going wild when it comes to
tire STYLE, there isn't much choice when it comes to SIZE. The speedometer
will stop reading correctly if you go to larger than 2.25-17 up front, the
fenders have very little free space for rubber any larger than 2.50-17,
and your final drive gearing will change equivalent to one tooth on the
countershaft with every half inch of size on the rear tire.

Michelin "Gazelle" M62:
2.50-17 and 2.25-17 ($12-$15 each)
Best all-around tire available. Thai made, heavy duty, modern tread.

Michelin VM100
: (front and rear on top C70 photo this page)
2.50-17 only ($15.00 each)
Very good quality tire, but unusually light and thin. Universal tread.
Ride is great, but doesn't provide anything solid to run on when flat.

2.50-17 and 2.25-17 ($15.00 each)
Good tire for front or rear. Heavy duty, universal tread.
Super-stiff sidewalls make it good for harsh conditions.

ChengShin C109
2.50-17 and 2.25-17 ($10-$12 each)
Cheesy Chinese tires. Heavy duty, universal tread. Work fine, last forever.

Beatrice Cycles stocks many of our favorites if you prefer mail-order:


Hard To Find Passport Parts

If you find a source for some of these - please share it! You'll find you
have a lot of new friends!

Leg shields come in a few very distinct varieties:

1. Early Cub and SuperCub models (sold before 1968) used a shield that
has no electric starter cutouts, an air cleaner cover and were completely
separated from the one-piece headlight, steering head and fork cover plastic.
1963 CA100:
COVER, FR. *NH0* 64301-001-020A (grey)

COVER, FR. *Y1* 64301-001-020R (yellow)
COVER, FR.   64301-001-020XG (white)

White and Gray versions in the USA - Apex Cycle
Pattern version from the UK - Ebley Honda

1966 CM91:
COVER, FR. *Y3L* 64301-046-000XL

2. Early USA-type C70 models (1968-1973) had starter cutouts both sides,
separate air cleaner cover, and the plastic of the shield met and integrated
with the painted metal steering head cover.
1971 C70M:

1972 C70 K1:
COVER, FR. 64301-086-710ZA (replaces 64301-086-691WF)

3. Early 1980's C70 Passport models (1980-1981) had starter cutouts,
separate air cleaner cover, and the plastic of the shield met and integrated
with the plastic steering head cover.
1980 & 1981 C70:
COVER, FR. *NH24* 64301-086-710ZA

4. Late 1980's C70 Passports (1982-1983) had starter cutouts, louvers
replaced the air cleaner cover, and the plastic of the shield met and
integrated with the plastic steering head cover.
1982 & 1983 C70:
COVER, FR. *NH111* 64301-GB4-705ZA
(replaces 64301-GB4-700Z
A & 64301-GB4-701ZA)

C70 14t countershaft (front) sprocket (stock on 83)
C70 15t sprocket (accessory, recommended replacement)

XR70R 15t sprocket (1997 model - if Honda parts counter people say
they have no C70 parts)

C70 Front Brake (80/81/82/83)
06450-GAG-003 (kit)

C70 Rear wheel spoke (160mm) you'll need 18
C70 Rear wheel spoke (160.5mm) you'll need 18
18 of each to make 36, you need each because the ends are bent different
to fit the inside and outside holes in the hub flanges.

Rubber drive dampers for rear sprocket (four required)

Old style 6v non-sealed C70 K0 headlight reflector shell

Hard-to-get speedometer illuminator and high beam bulbs:
A-1262 T-2 Lamp, 1.5W, 6V with BA-7S Base, 200 Hours Rated Life,
(0.27 inch / 6.9 mm diameter, 0.91 inch / 23.0 mm length)
A-1272 T-2 Lamp, 2W, 12V with BA-7S Base, 200 Hours Rated Life,
(0.27 inch / 6.9 mm diameter, 0.91 inch / 23.0 mm length) (6 volt) (12 volt)
...also available at most electronic parts stores under the "Cititronics" brand.

Seat Covers - if you have a good seat pan and foam, there are very high quality
seat covers available online.  Ebay is where to look, and my favorite at the moment
is from Canada -

Need keys? Blanks from year one to 1982:

Online USA Parts Fiche (search them for part numbers - don't expect them to stock parts): - my favorite Honda microfiche site with parts ordering - another good microfiche site - home of the original Honda microfiche and online parts ordering site

Favorite Online Sources of Critical Parts: - Beatrice Cycle stocks plenty of Honda C70 Passport parts - rebuild and performance parts for Honda horizontal singles - Keyster carburetor rebuild kit source in Canada - Indonesian online seller of modern OEM Honda parts

Online North American OEM/NOS Parts sources: - pretty reliable source of modern Honda parts - online pricing and sales of Honda parts - online pricing and sales of Honda parts - many NOS Honda parts for older C-bikes

Euro/International Parts sources: - Classic Motorcycle Supplies in the Netherlands - Indonesian online seller of modern OEM Honda parts
4-Stroke Bike Centre - in the Netherlands
MonkeyBikeUK - the insanely great online shop for Monkey, Dax and Minitrails (stuff that fits C-bikes too)
David Silver Spares - C100 Cub parts in the UK
Surrey-in-shop - parts from the United Kingdom on ebay (also at
MicaPeak - MicaPeak's list of Honda dealers worldwide
Honda Factory Accesories - not available for sale outside Japan

Ebay Sellers We Trust (long-term members of the Yahoo C-bike groups who sell on the side):
Ducky Bike Parts - same as Tenavintage in Indonesia - run by Anis Setyadi
xrarespares - Keat Hooi Ong's shop in Indonesia
Beatrice Cycles -

Favorite Ebay searches:
Honda C50 - General Export models from individuals
Honda C50 (Stores) - General Export models from ebay Stores
Honda C70 - USA-types
Honda C70 (Stores) - USA-types
Honda C70 Passport - Late model USA-types
Honda C70 Passport (Stores) - Late model USA-types
Honda C90 - Euro and early model USA-types
Honda C90 (Stores) - Euro and early model USA-types
Honda Cub - Export and USA-type early models
Honda Cub (Stores) - Export and USA-type early models
Honda SuperCub - Pre-1970 from USA and moden General Export
Honda SuperCub (Stores) - Pre-1970 from USA and moden General Export
Honda Super Cub - Pre-1970 from USA and moden General Export
Honda Super Cub (Stores) - Pre-1970 from USA and moden General Export

Useful C70 web pages:

Yahoo Group "Honda-C70" online files page - C70 resources for the Yahoo group on the web
Yahoo Group "Honda-Super-Cubs" online files page - photos, owners manual, other Cub resources

Yahoo Group "Honda-C70" - 1971-72 Honda C70M Official Shop Manual - download it page by page

Yahoo Group "Honda-C70" - 1980-82 Honda C70 Service Manual - individual pages in JPEG form
Yahoo Group "Honda-Super-Cubs" - 1980-82 Honda C70 Service Manual - individual pages in JPEG form

1980-82 Honda C70 Service Manual (with 82-83 addendum) - whole thing in PDF form
1981 Honda C70 Passport USA-type Parts Manual - whole thing in PDF form

Small Honda Singles page - theory and practical info for C70 owners

Database of Honda Models & Serial Numbers - find out what year your Honda is by serial number

Find Your Product Code - chart showing the 'product code' (bike model) in every Honda Part Number

Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club - resources and stories for restorers

Forward Air - defacto standard for shipping a bike in the USA

UShip - get bids from independent shippers to move your motorcycle

C70/Passport/Cub Owners Personal Pages:
Noah Schlaes Honda C70 Passport pages - personal page of the Honda-C70 yahoo list owner - entertaining stories of long distance C-bike touring in United Kingdom - Arctic to Tierra del Fuego on Cubs
SuperCub Touristas! - in Japanese, translated by Google

Honda C90 & Innova, Loncin C110 and Small Euro Singles in England: - main site
Honda Innova - Adobe Acrobat (.PDF) file on the 125cc Modern "Cub" (Innova reviews)
Loncin C110 - 110cc Chinese Honda Wave copy

Mexican C-Hondas (select "Motonetas Urbanas" or "Motocicletas Urbanas"):
C90 Econopower - General Export model of C90 available across the border to the South
C125 BIZ & Wave - Modern aero type "Cub" with big engine, modern frame and telescopic forks

Honda Corporate and Asean info:
50 million Honda Cubs - Honda SuperCub best seller of all time...
Honda Collection Hall - Insane motorcycle collection at the Japanese Honda Headquarters
- Thai source of Honda Wave 100's and parts

Fun with links:
Northern California Diagnostic Laboratories - the premiere DOT/EPA certification shop in the USA
Old Honda Cub Ads - in Japanese - more - even more - our comrades usually have something cool to trade
Faddybike - Monkey/DAX/etc. performance from Japan and Bangkok, Thailand
Purple Helmets - Total Sh*te! - everyone with a C-bike needs this video

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Infinite Hangtime Photography

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